Questions and Answers on Styles and Fabrics
by Alicyn Wright

Can I save money making a dress (or having it made) over purchasing one retail?
It depends. If you are trying to copy an expensive designer gown, you will most likely save quite a bit. If you are comparing an imported factory gown made in Asia, you may not. It will also depend on whether you are paying a seamstress or sewing it on your own. If you sew it yourself, you can save money. If you are paying a qualified dressmaker, it might cost a little more.

However, there are several other important factors to consider in addition to price.

First is Style. If you are the type who does not want to look like the hundreds of other brides in the same ready-to-wear gown, then you may consider making or having a dress made. Sewing a dress offers you the luxury of designing details to your exact liking. You can select the perfect shaped rose; whether a bud or fully open bloom; the perfect placement of a lace applique or trim to accent or camouflage. Making a gown creates a one-of-a-kind dress. Even though you may be using a commercial pattern, individual choice in lace, fabric and detailing indeed create a personal gown for you.

Second is fit. Many brides purchase an expensive ready made designer gown not realizing they will then have to spend another small fortune…sometimes hundreds of dollars… in alterations just to get that gown to fit their figure. A custom gown tailored for your individual figure always gives you a fit that is unequaled in a ready-to-wear gown. The proper fitting takes place in the original pattern work, something you can never achieve with a mass produced size.

Third is Quality. This is an area where there is no comparison. The gowns sewn in Asian factories are simply not made to last. If you are looking for an heirloom quality gown that can be cherished for generations, have it made by a qualified dressmaker.

Your wedding gown is a dress that will be worn once but cherished for a lifetime. To me the choice is simple.

Alicyn, I just got engaged! There are so many choices out there. How do I find a style that will look good on me?
First figure out what looks good on your body. How many times have you fallen in love with a picture in an ad or with a dress on a hanger, to then try it on and find out it is a disaster. The same holds true with a wedding gown. Remember, when the going get tough, the tough go shopping! Try many styles on so you can really see the good and the bad.

To give you at least some direction, let's discuss some general style rules for different figures. Do keep in mind that these are general rules. There are always exceptions and personal taste may vary. Use the figure style guidelines below as a direction to start.

TRIANGLE - also known as the pear shape, you are narrow above the waist and heavy below. Your bust is usually small, your shoulders are narrow and your waist is defined.

Look for gowns that have fitted bodices with full skirts as they will emphasize the waist while de-emphasizing the hips. Bodices with texture or accented with lace and beading will create the illusion of a fuller upper body. Look for gowns with little or no lace on the skirts and with few gathers. Princess skirts would be ideal. Fullness in sleeves will extend your shoulder line. Jewel necklines will add breadth to your upper body.

Avoid gowns with high necklines, which will make the shoulders look narrower. Avoid silhouettes that hug the body such as sheaths or mermaids and avoid skirts that have extra fullness through the hips, excessive gathers, bustles and bows in back.

RECTANGLE - Your body is long and narrow. Your shoulders and hips are very close in size with not much of a waist. Look for empire waists as they will camouflage the waistline and place emphasis on the bodice and hemlines. Sleeves with elaborate detailing will broaden the shoulders. Full skirts with horizontal detail are best. Use a fabric that holds its shape well such as a silk dupioni or taffeta. Bateau necklines will widen the shoulders. Avoid slim silhouettes with vertical styling such as straight gowns.

INVERTED TRIANGLE - When your upper body is wider than your lower body. Your shoulders are broad and your bust is full with slender legs and hips. Look for gowns with an elongated bodice as they will tend to draw the eye down lengthening the upper body. Sleeves that are simple with minor gathers and that follow the natural shoulder line are ideal. Wear simple bodices with accents kept to a minimum and with open necklines that are not too wide or low. Full skirts or straight gowns with full trains will create the appearance of more curves on the lower body. Also look for gowns with bustles, bows and other adornments. Avoid heavy beading, oversized sleeves with elaborate detailing, and empire styles since they will emphasize top heaviness.

HOURGLASS - When your body is curvaceous. Your bust and hip measurements are very close but your waist is noticeably smaller. Often considered the ideal figure. Look for basque waistlines or dropped waistlines as they will show waist definition. Look for simple classic lines such as a fitted princess or sheath gown. Off-the-shoulder gowns and open necklines are great. Avoid heavy bodice and skirt detailing as they can make you appear heavier. Also avoid high necklines and empire styling which will hide your best features.